Pork indulgence reigns supreme @ Don Dae Gam, Los Angeles (Park’s Pork BBQ review)

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Pork indulgence reigns supreme @ Don Dae Gam, Los Angeles (Park’s Pork BBQ review)

by MK on September 9, 2009

Differentiating the sheer number of restaurants and kbbq joints that line block after block in Koreatown can sometimes be a challenge. Sure, by now the network of food communications and blogging have allowed for a fair handful of established institutions to differentiate themselves as predominant de facto destinations — Bosam at Kobawoo, Korean blood sausage at Western Soon Dae, an icy bowl of arrowheat noodles at Yu Chun, or perhaps some nourishing abalone porridge at the hole-in-the-wall Mountain Cafe?

But really, despite this prevailing sense that everything to be found has already been unearthed, how many restaurants get lost in the shuffle and left waiting to be discovered?

It was with this thought and a tinge of anxious excitement that led us to Don Dae Gam, resting solely on a tip via the twitter of “The Belly of Los Angeles” and LA’s own intrepid food explorer, Mr. Jonathan Gold.

Don Dae Gam is the second KBBQ establishment for restauranteur Jenny Park of Park’s BBQ. Tucked between 11th and 12th street off Olympic boulevard, the restaurant sports a large and open interior space scattered with circular steel tables and stool-seating setup for parties of 3~5, and larger long-table seating arrangements in back for parties of 6+. With an aesthetic that’s noticeably modern and an atmosphere designed towards the casual, it becomes clear — this is an environment designed for conversation and consumption, with an emphasis on the latter in mass quantities of pork and soju.

We opted for the “Combo #3″ platter — pork neck, chop, belly, marinated pork rib, and pork intestine so good the experience could only be described as revelatory. As per custom, an array of banchan was laid out before us as we waited in anticipation for the meat. The grills are gas-powered but are of the newer hybrid variety lined with baskets of charcoal near the base. As we sipped our soju, the meat arrived in a tear-inducing platter of sheer beauty.

Slivers of pork neck began the meal in fine fashion. Despite the lean nature of this meat, the slight ribbons of fat that line it maximize the porky flavor.

And before we knew it, glorious cuts of pork belly began to fall with a satisfactory sizzle upon the grill. Fatty, rich, and tender — everything you’ve learned to love and expect from it.

As the meal continued, we became subject to a multi-course meal celebrating all things pork, an animal not properly given its due in a short-rib dominated KBBQ world.

And as pork belly was devoured, as promised by Mr. Gold, a wonderful chop was then put onto the grill. They tempered the pace of the meats well, alternating between something slightly lean, then hitting you with fat, and repeating. A uniquely butchered piece of pork-rib, marinated and fixed to somewhat mimic the look of traditional beef short-rib followed. But really, what stole the show at the end were the pieces of pig intestine. Crispy on the outside, slightly chewy as you’d expect, but the surprise in the wonderfully unctuous marrow-like inside.

Then with bellies stuffed and logic skewed by multiple bottles of soju, we defied all rationale and ordered their dish of spicy baby squid and pork belly. To say the least, that was one hell of a way to end the meal. Baby squid was stir-fried in an almost shallow stew full of spicy chili flavors and vegetables. As the concoction cooked down, the waiter returned to surprise us with a delight on par with the finding extra money in ones pocket. A full-flavored crispy fried-rice was made from the leftover bits.

While I’ve always been a fan of all things porcine, never had I experienced it in a kbbq fashion, the way I had at Don Dae Gam. Ms. Park — she knows her pork. Each cut perfectly butchered and each cut with its own defined taste and texture, showcasing all the dimensions of the animal from a Korean perspective. To top it all off, the $60 combo was more than adequate to feed a party of 5. However, perhaps the logo of the pig wiggling its butt inspired us to indulge in a little extra gluttony with the squid dish. This restaurant is a wonderful and fully welcomed addition to the neighborhood.